Rubber Paint for Facades

Rubber Paint for Facades from SILK PLASTER is a breathable, crack-bridging and weatherproof finish that keeps facades protected from rain, frost and UV while letting the wall breathe. Below you will find surface preparation, application technique, coverage and long-term durability of Rubber Paint for Facades. Explore the full SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT range.

The facade defines the first impression of a building and at the same time shields its load-bearing structures. A facade paint has to withstand precipitation, temperature swings, ultraviolet light and biological growth while keeping its colour and texture. SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT meets all of these requirements thanks to its acrylic-latex binder and elastic film-forming structure.

Properties of the coating

The elastic film bridges hairline cracks in the substrate without losing integrity. That is particularly important for facades made of aerated concrete, plaster or older brick, where small cracks are a normal part of ageing.

The coating is waterproof on the outside but vapour-permeable from within: water vapour escapes freely from the wall, preventing moisture from accumulating in the insulation and feeding mould. UV-resistant pigments keep the colour stable on sun-exposed elevations.

Suitable substrates

Concrete, reinforced concrete and monolithic walls.
Cement-lime and gypsum plaster.
Silica brick and ceramic brick.
Aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded-clay concrete blocks.
Cement-bonded particle board (CBPB), OSB and fibre-cement panels.
Previously painted facades, after cleaning and priming.

Facade preparation

The facade is cleaned of dust, dirt, efflorescence, fungus and moss. Biological growth is treated with an antiseptic and rinsed off thoroughly. Loose plaster is chipped away, cracks are opened up and filled with a repair compound. Larger defects are levelled with a cement or acrylic filler.

Before painting, the facade is primed with a deep-penetrating acrylic primer. For porous substrates such as aerated concrete or lime plaster, priming is essential - it reinforces the surface layer and reduces paint consumption. The primer must dry for at least four hours.

Painting technique

Two to three coats are optimal for facades. The first coat may be thinned with water by 5-10% - it acts as a reinforcing and adhesion-promoting impregnation. The second and third coats are applied undiluted and provide an even, opaque colour.

A medium-pile velour roller is used for the bulk of the area; a brush handles corners, reveals and decorative elements. For very large surfaces an airless sprayer speeds the work considerably. The minimum drying time between coats is 1-2 hours, with full polymerisation in 24-72 hours.

Application conditions

Air and wall temperatures should be between +5 °C and +30 °C, with relative humidity no higher than 80%. Painting in direct sunlight is best avoided: the paint dries too quickly and may lose adhesion. Strong wind is also a problem, as it carries dust and pollen onto the fresh film.

If rain is expected within the next 4-6 hours, postpone the work. Once fully cured, the coating shrugs off rain, hail and snow.

Coverage and economics

Consumption is 200-400 g/m² in two coats. On smooth plaster it falls closer to the lower end; on porous aerated concrete or textured render it reaches the upper end. As a guide, 1 kg of paint covers about 5 m² in two coats.

Add 10-15% to your estimate to allow for cutting in and waste. The elastic film reduces how often the facade needs repainting compared with standard acrylic paints.

Looking after the facade

Wash the facade once or twice a year - a garden hose or a low-pressure washer is enough. For heavier soiling, use mild detergents free of abrasives and solvents. Localised damage is easy to touch up.

Rubber paint does not fade abruptly: even after many years in service the colour dulls evenly, without patchiness or streaking.

Advantages over other facade paints

SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT is considerably more elastic than standard acrylic facade paints and bridges hairline cracks in the substrate. That makes it the preferred choice for aerated concrete, plastered facades and older brickwork, where small cracks are simply part of how the wall behaves.

Compared with silicone facade paints, rubber paint is simpler to apply and less expensive, while service life and water repellency are comparable on most substrates.

Common mistakes on facades

Skipping the primer on porous aerated concrete - increases paint consumption sharply and reduces adhesion.
Painting onto fresh plaster - leads to peeling within a couple of months. Fresh plaster should cure for at least 28 days.
Ignoring efflorescence - white deposits will reappear under the paint and spoil the look.
Painting individual walls on different days with different weather - risks colour banding. Plan the work by elevation, in single sessions per wall.

Frequently asked questions

Can the facade be painted in winter? No - the minimum air and wall temperature is +5 °C. Sub-zero work freezes water in the film and ruins the coating.

Is the paint suitable for wooden facades? Yes, under a dedicated system with antiseptic and a wood primer - see the article on wooden surfaces.

Can it be applied over old alkyd paint? Yes - after degreasing, sanding and an adhesion primer.

Which colours hold up best to sun? Light shades - white, grey, beige, light blue. Darker colours shift slightly faster, but the coating is UV resistant and does not chalk.

Rubber Paint by surface

See the full Rubber Paint product page for colours, pack sizes and technical data, or the step-by-step application guide.