“Clients used to ask me how to get their bathroom to look like a spa. Now they ask me how to get it to look like the photographs they see online - no grout, no joints, stone-like walls that feel warm. The only way to deliver that is microcement or Marmorino. Tile cannot do it.”

That shift is driven by three things - the look of a single continuous surface, the hygiene benefits of eliminating grout lines, and the fact that mineral decorative systems have finally matured into genuinely waterproof, abrasion-resistant, specifier-friendly products. This guide explains which Silk Plaster system belongs in which part of the bathroom, and why.

Why Bathrooms Are Moving Away From Tile

Tile is not failing. It is being out-designed. Four pressures are pushing it out of premium residential and hospitality bathroom specifications at the same time.

• Grout is the weak point. Grout absorbs moisture, darkens, harbours mould and needs re-sealing every two to three years. A seamless surface removes the failure mode entirely.
• Cold feel. Ceramic and porcelain feel cold to the touch even in heated rooms. Mineral plaster feels closer to natural stone - warmer underhand, softer underfoot on floors where it is specified.
• Substrate movement. Plasterboard flex and thermal movement cause tile cracks along unsupported walls. A flexible polymer-modified microcement layer absorbs micro-movement without fracturing.
• Design language. Clients want the Aman, the Six Senses, the curated villa look. That is an uninterrupted mineral surface - not a grid of rectangles.

The question is no longer whether to use a seamless finish. It is which system to use, where, and how to protect it.

Microcement: The Wet-Zone Workhorse

Microcement is Silk Plaster’s answer for floors, shower trays, walk-in showers, vanity surrounds and anywhere water will sit or pool. It is a polymer-modified mineral mortar applied in several thin coats, reinforced with 150 g/m2 fibreglass mesh over tiled or jointed substrates, and sealed with the PU 2K Varnish TOP 890 two-component polyurethane topcoat. The finished surface is only a few millimetres thick, monolithic, and suitable for wet areas when correctly specified and sealed.

Three technical points matter when specifying microcement for a bathroom:

• The primer and mesh stage is non-negotiable. The substrate must be primed with the system primer - Aqua Oteks deep primer where microcement goes over tiles, BaseQ primer on other substrates - and reinforced with fibreglass mesh across every plasterboard joint. Skipping this step is the single most common cause of bathroom microcement failures.
• Do not skip the 2K polyurethane topcoat. Silk Plaster’s system is waterproof when it is finished with PU 2K Varnish TOP 890, its two-component polyurethane topcoat. The topcoat is what closes the surface and makes the finish suitable for a wet zone.
• Texture is a specification choice. Microcement can be finished smooth or lightly textured. For a shower floor, agree the texture and topcoat with your applicator before work starts; for walls, smooth is standard.

Explore the Microcement Silk Plaster product range for the full primer, base coat, finish and varnish specification.

Marmorino: The Dry-Wall Luxury Option

Marmorino Carrara is the right choice for everything in the bathroom that is not a wet zone - the wall behind the vanity, the ceiling, the feature wall opposite the bath, the corridor leading in. It is a true Venetian plaster built on 24-month slaked lime and fine carrara marble dust. Applied in two trowel passes and burnished to a soft satin or polished marble sheen, it reads as natural stone rather than as a coating.

Three reasons Marmorino belongs in the bathroom specification even though it is not used in the shower:

• It regulates humidity. Lime-based plaster is vapour-permeable. In a bathroom with good extraction it actively absorbs and releases moisture, reducing condensation on walls.
• It suppresses mould without biocides. The high alkalinity of natural lime creates conditions that mould and bacteria struggle to colonise. That is particularly relevant on the ceiling, where humidity collects.
• It elevates the entire room. A Marmorino feature wall transforms a functional bathroom into a signature space. It is why hotel spa designers return to it across every price point from boutique to ultra-luxury.

Browse the Marmorino and Venetian plaster range for colour and texture options.

Travertino Naturale: The Textured Feature

For a bathroom that wants the look of a hewn stone hammam or a quarried Italian villa, Travertino Naturale produces a textured, open-pore finish that reads convincingly as natural travertine. It suits feature walls, niche cladding and the wall behind a freestanding tub. Travertino can be sealed with a matt hydro-oleophobic treatment to make it splash-resistant, which extends its usable zone to everywhere except direct shower spray.

A Simple Specification Table

Use this as a working map when specifying a bathroom in 2026:

What Developers, Applicators and Owners Each Get Out Of It

The developer gets a specification that reduces long-term complaints - no grout discolouration, no silicone replacement, no tile cracks from substrate flex. Maintenance calls on finished bathrooms drop sharply once tile is removed from the equation.

The applicator gets a higher-margin scope of work, with the opportunity to take a single project from primer to sealed finish without involving a tiler, a plumber for grout repair or a separate silicone specialist. Partners trained on the Silk Plaster system deliver bathrooms faster than a traditional tile-and-grout crew on anything over eight square metres.

The owner gets the bathroom they saw online - seamless, warm, stone-like, easy to wipe clean, resilient to the next redecoration. Repairs, when needed, are local and invisible rather than requiring a whole row of tiles to be lifted.

Making It Happen on Your Next Project

If you are specifying a bathroom now, the cleanest route is to zone it: microcement everywhere water sits, Marmorino or Travertino everywhere water does not. Silk Plaster supplies both systems as matched families, so colour co-ordination between wet and dry zones is straightforward.

For studios and developers who want to add seamless bathroom finishing to their own scope of work rather than subcontracting it, the Silk Plaster partner programme covers technical training, sample kits and project support. Request dealer information through the partner page, or browse finished product references on the Silk Plaster homepage.

Rubber Paint for Metal Surfaces

Rubber Paint for Metal Surfaces from SILK PLASTER is an elastic, waterproof and weatherproof coating applied over an anti-corrosion primer on steel and galvanised metal surfaces such as gates, railings, fences and roofing. Below you will find surface preparation, application technique, coverage and long-term durability of Rubber Paint for Metal Surfaces. Explore the full SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT range.

Metal calls for special care: a thin film will not stop corrosion, and an over-rigid one will crack with thermal movement. SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT combines elasticity, water resistance and UV resistance, and works together with an anti-corrosion primer. It suits most domestic and commercial metal structures.

Suitable applications

• Gates, wickets and metal fences.
• Wrought-iron railings and grilles.
• Gutters and downpipes.
• Metal doors and canopies.
• Garage doors and metal garage walls.
• Hangars, tanks and reservoirs for non-drinking water.

What makes the coating distinctive

The elastic film does not crack with the thermal expansion of metal - dark surfaces can reach +70 °C in summer and drop to -30 °C in winter. Rigid coatings craze quickly under such cycles and let water reach the substrate.

Once cured, the film is waterproof: rainwater no longer touches the metal, slowing corrosion. The coating is UV resistant, so the colour stays stable outdoors.

Preparing the metal

Strip rust, mill scale and flaking paint with a wire brush, grinder or, ideally, abrasive blasting. Degrease oily areas with white spirit or a dedicated degreaser. After mechanical cleaning, treat rust spots with a rust converter and let them dry.

Prepared metal must always receive an anti-corrosion primer based on acrylic or alkyd chemistry. Without a primer the topcoat will not last, even on galvanised steel.

Application

Apply two or three coats. The first may be lightly thinned (up to 5% water) for smoother flow; the rest are applied neat. Allow 1.5-2 hours between coats at +20 °C.

A roller works well on flat surfaces, a brush on wrought-iron details and complex geometry. For large surfaces - hangar walls, big gates - a sprayer is more efficient.

Application conditions

Work between +5 °C and +30 °C. The metal must be dry and warm before painting: applying paint to cold metal under high humidity causes condensation and adhesion loss. Avoid rain or any risk of precipitation in the next 4-6 hours.

For galvanised steel, choose a primer compatible with zinc - standard alkyd primers tend to peel off galvanised surfaces.

Coverage and service life

Consumption is 200-400 g/m² in two coats, depending on how smooth the metal is. As a guide, 1 kg of paint covers about 5 m² in two coats.

Refreshing the finish is simpler than with alkyd enamels: clean the surface and apply one fresh coat. Chips and scratches are touched up locally, with no visible boundary between old and new film.

Advantages on metal

Unlike hammer-finish enamels, SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT does not blister on hot metal and does not crack in frost. Unlike powder coating, rubber paint needs no oven to cure - it can be applied on site after installation of the structure.

Common mistakes on metal

• Painting over rust without a converter - orange stains will bleed through within one or two seasons.
• Skipping the anti-corrosion primer - even galvanised steel needs a primer compatible with zinc.
• Painting cold metal when dew is settling - adhesion suffers. Paint when the metal is sun-warmed and dry.
• Trying to cover in a single thick coat - paint runs off vertical surfaces. Two or three thinner coats are better.

Frequently asked questions

Can a galvanised roof be painted? Yes - always with a primer specifically rated for galvanised steel. Without one, any paint will peel quickly.

Is the paint suitable for stainless steel? Yes - after light abrading and a coat of adhesion primer.

Can a cast-iron radiator be painted? Not recommended: above +90 °C the film may lose elasticity. Radiators need a heat-resistant paint.

Does the paint protect against corrosion better than alkyd enamel? The paint itself creates a waterproof barrier, but corrosion protection comes from the primer. The two layers work together.

Rubber Paint by surface

• Mineral surfaces: concrete, brick, render and stone
• Roofing
• Facades
• Plinths and foundations
• Wooden surfaces
• Concrete floors

See the full Rubber Paint product page for colours, pack sizes and technical data, or the step-by-step application guide.

Rubber Paint for Wooden Surfaces

Rubber Paint for Wooden Surfaces from SILK PLASTER is a flexible, waterproof and breathable coating that moves with the timber and protects fences, decking, cladding and other wooden surfaces. Below you will find surface preparation, application technique, coverage and long-term durability of Rubber Paint for Wooden Surfaces. Explore the full SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT range.

Wood is warm, attractive and environmentally friendly, but without protection it darkens, cracks and falls prey to fungus. SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT shields timber from moisture, ultraviolet light and biological attack while remaining elastic enough to move with the wood through seasonal humidity changes.

Where it works on wood

• Wooden fences, gates and railings.
• Decks, terraces and verandas.
• Garden furniture and gazebos.
• Soffits and roof eaves linings.
• Wooden façades, tongue-and-groove cladding and timber imitation panels.
• Outbuildings: sheds, wood stores, bath houses (external walls only).

Working with wood as a substrate

Wood breathes - it changes its linear dimensions as ambient humidity rises and falls. Rigid alkyd enamels split along the grain under such conditions. The elastic film of SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT absorbs that movement and stays intact.

The coating is vapour-permeable: moisture from the wood escapes freely instead of being trapped under the paint, which prevents blistering and rot.

Preparing the wood

Clean the surface of dust, dirt and flaking old paint. Sand off any grey, oxidised layer with medium-grit paper (P80-P120). Treat knots and resinous areas with an insulating primer to keep resin from bleeding through the new finish.

Fresh-sawn timber must dry to a moisture content of 12-15%. Always treat the wood with an antiseptic to protect it from mould, blue stain and insects. Once the antiseptic has dried, apply an acrylic primer formulated for wood.

Painting technique

Two coats are normally sufficient. The first may be thinned with 5-10% water - it sinks into the fibres and works as a binder. The second coat builds the colour and the decorative finish. Use a brush on profiled elements (balusters, mouldings) and a roller on flat boards.

Allow two hours between coats at +20 °C. Always work along the grain for a smoother appearance and to reduce the chance of patchy colour.

Conditions and limitations

Air and wood temperature should be between +5 °C and +30 °C, with relative humidity no higher than 80%. Do not paint wood that is still damp after rain, and avoid direct sunlight: a hot surface dries the paint too quickly and weakens adhesion.

Avoid use in areas where the wood is permanently submerged or in direct ground contact - those conditions call for dedicated oil-based impregnations.

Coverage and service life

Consumption is 200-400 g/m² in two coats; rough, unsanded wood takes more than planed timber. As a guide, 1 kg of paint covers about 5 m² in two coats.

Refreshing the finish does not require stripping the old paint: a light sanding and a fresh coat are enough. That makes wooden façades and decks much simpler to maintain.

Advantages for wood

Compared with translucent stains, rubber paint fully covers the grain and shields wood from UV, which helps protect the timber underneath. Compared with alkyd enamels, the coating does not split along the grain with seasonal movement and does not yellow in the sun.

The coating also forms a waterproof barrier, which matters most for garden furniture, fences and gazebos that stand permanently in the open.

Common mistakes on wood

• Painting onto unseasoned timber (moisture above 15%) - leads to blistering and peeling.
• Skipping the antiseptic - wood can still rot from within even under a paint film.
• Ignoring knots and resin pockets - the resin bleeds through and leaves yellow stains. Use an insulating primer over these spots.
• Painting across the grain - gives a less even texture and higher consumption. Always work along the grain.

Frequently asked questions

Can freshly sawn boards be painted? Only after they have dried to 12-15% moisture. Fresh-sawn timber takes three to six months to season depending on thickness.

Is the paint suitable for outdoor bath-house walls? Yes, for outer walls. Inside the steam room it is not used - the temperature and humidity are too high.

Can garden furniture be painted that people will sit on? Yes - once fully cured the coating is dry to the touch and does not transfer to clothing.

Do I need to strip a fence completely before repainting? Not if the old paint is firmly bonded. A light sanding and dusting are enough.

Rubber Paint by surface

• Mineral surfaces: concrete, brick, render and stone
• Roofing
• Facades
• Plinths and foundations
• Metal surfaces
• Concrete floors

See the full Rubber Paint product page for colours, pack sizes and technical data, or the step-by-step application guide.

Rubber Paint for Plinths & Foundations

Rubber Paint for Plinths & Foundations from SILK PLASTER is a tough, waterproof and abrasion-resistant coating that shields plinths and foundations from rising damp, frost and ground splashing. Below you will find surface preparation, application technique, coverage and long-term durability of Rubber Paint for Plinths & Foundations. Explore the full SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT range.

The plinth and the lower part of the foundation are the most vulnerable zone of any building. Capillary moisture from the ground, snowmelt, splash-back from rainwater drainage and driving rain all converge here. A coating for this area has to combine waterproofing and decorative properties, withstand mechanical loads and resist ultraviolet light. SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT covers all of these requirements.

Why paint the plinth

Protection from moisture is the primary task. Concrete in the plinth gradually loses strength when saturated with water, micro-cracks multiply and the reinforcement begins to corrode. Sealed beneath an elastic film, the substrate stays dry and lasts.

The second task is decorative. Rubber paint offers a wide palette and is UV resistant, giving the base of the facade a finished appearance.

Suitable substrates

• Monolithic concrete and precast reinforced-concrete blocks.
• Brickwork (silica brick and ceramic brick).
• Cement plaster.
• Natural and artificial stone, provided an adhesion primer is used.
• Foundation blocks once levelled and primed.

Plinth preparation

Clean the surface of dirt, biological deposits and crumbling old finishes. Open up cracks and fill them with a repair compound. Remove efflorescence mechanically or with acid-based cleaners, then rinse and dry the substrate.

The plinth must always be primed with a penetrating acrylic primer - this strengthens the substrate, lowers paint consumption and improves adhesion. Priming is especially important for porous concrete and older brickwork.

Painting technique

Apply two or three coats. The first may be thinned with 5-10% water for better penetration; subsequent coats are applied undiluted to build a dense, opaque film. Use a brush on uneven surfaces and a roller or sprayer on smoother ones.

Pay particular attention to the junction between the plinth and the surrounding apron. Extend the coating onto the apron by 5-10 cm to form a continuous waterproofing loop and prevent moisture ingress through the joint.

Application conditions

Work in positive temperatures only - from +5 °C to +30 °C. After rain, allow the plinth at least 24 hours to dry. Surface moisture should not exceed 5%, and ambient humidity should be no higher than 80%.

The best windows are dry spells in spring, summer or early autumn. Avoid painting the plinth in direct midday sun: the coating dries too quickly and may lose adhesion.

Coverage and service life

Consumption is 200-400 g/m² in two coats, with the upper end typical for porous plinth substrates. As a guide, 1 kg of paint covers about 5 m² in two coats.

Annual inspection includes a wash-down, repair of any chipped areas and touch-ups where the coating meets planting beds or the apron. Rubber paint does not peel off in large fragments and is easy to refresh in spots, which sets it apart from oil and alkyd enamels.

Advantages over alternatives

Compared with a cementitious waterproof slurry, rubber paint does not crack with building settlement and thermal movement. Compared with bituminous mastic, it does not soften in summer and keeps a tidy look - the plinth is visible from the street, after all.

Compared with standard façade paint, the advantage is the water resistance and tolerance of capillary moisture, both of which are critical at plinth level.

Common mistakes on plinths

• Painting without carrying the coating onto the apron - leaves the joint open to water. Always extend the paint by 5-10 cm onto the apron.
• Skipping efflorescence removal - the deposits will reappear and spoil the appearance.
• Painting a damp plinth after rain - leads to peeling. Wait at least 24 hours for full drying.
• Aiming for a thin, purely decorative coat. The plinth acts as a protective shield, so build a full two-coat system rather than one thin coat.

Frequently asked questions

Can the plinth be painted if tall grass grows right up to it? Clear a strip along the plinth first - grass, mulch and stones. Plant contact is tolerable but not ideal for service life.

Is the paint suitable for a stone plinth? Yes, with a mandatory adhesion primer for smooth substrates.

Can an already painted plinth be repainted? Yes, provided the old paint is firmly bonded. Remove flaking patches, sand, prime and paint.

What if the plinth is damp on the inside? Exterior paint alone is not enough. Internal waterproofing and a check of the apron and drainage are also needed.

Rubber Paint by surface

• Mineral surfaces: concrete, brick, render and stone
• Roofing
• Facades
• Wooden surfaces
• Metal surfaces
• Concrete floors

See the full Rubber Paint product page for colours, pack sizes and technical data, or the step-by-step application guide.

Rubber Paint for Facades

Rubber Paint for Facades from SILK PLASTER is a breathable, crack-bridging and weatherproof finish that keeps facades protected from rain, frost and UV while letting the wall breathe. Below you will find surface preparation, application technique, coverage and long-term durability of Rubber Paint for Facades. Explore the full SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT range.

The facade defines the first impression of a building and at the same time shields its load-bearing structures. A facade paint has to withstand precipitation, temperature swings, ultraviolet light and biological growth while keeping its colour and texture. SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT meets all of these requirements thanks to its acrylic-latex binder and elastic film-forming structure.

Properties of the coating

The elastic film bridges hairline cracks in the substrate without losing integrity. That is particularly important for facades made of aerated concrete, plaster or older brick, where small cracks are a normal part of ageing.

The coating is waterproof on the outside but vapour-permeable from within: water vapour escapes freely from the wall, preventing moisture from accumulating in the insulation and feeding mould. UV-resistant pigments keep the colour stable on sun-exposed elevations.

Suitable substrates

• Concrete, reinforced concrete and monolithic walls.
• Cement-lime and gypsum plaster.
• Silica brick and ceramic brick.
• Aerated concrete, foam concrete and expanded-clay concrete blocks.
• Cement-bonded particle board (CBPB), OSB and fibre-cement panels.
• Previously painted facades, after cleaning and priming.

Facade preparation

The facade is cleaned of dust, dirt, efflorescence, fungus and moss. Biological growth is treated with an antiseptic and rinsed off thoroughly. Loose plaster is chipped away, cracks are opened up and filled with a repair compound. Larger defects are levelled with a cement or acrylic filler.

Before painting, the facade is primed with a deep-penetrating acrylic primer. For porous substrates such as aerated concrete or lime plaster, priming is essential - it reinforces the surface layer and reduces paint consumption. The primer must dry for at least four hours.

Painting technique

Two to three coats are optimal for facades. The first coat may be thinned with water by 5-10% - it acts as a reinforcing and adhesion-promoting impregnation. The second and third coats are applied undiluted and provide an even, opaque colour.

A medium-pile velour roller is used for the bulk of the area; a brush handles corners, reveals and decorative elements. For very large surfaces an airless sprayer speeds the work considerably. The minimum drying time between coats is 1-2 hours, with full polymerisation in 24-72 hours.

Application conditions

Air and wall temperatures should be between +5 °C and +30 °C, with relative humidity no higher than 80%. Painting in direct sunlight is best avoided: the paint dries too quickly and may lose adhesion. Strong wind is also a problem, as it carries dust and pollen onto the fresh film.

If rain is expected within the next 4-6 hours, postpone the work. Once fully cured, the coating shrugs off rain, hail and snow.

Coverage and economics

Consumption is 200-400 g/m² in two coats. On smooth plaster it falls closer to the lower end; on porous aerated concrete or textured render it reaches the upper end. As a guide, 1 kg of paint covers about 5 m² in two coats.

Add 10-15% to your estimate to allow for cutting in and waste. The elastic film reduces how often the facade needs repainting compared with standard acrylic paints.

Looking after the facade

Wash the facade once or twice a year - a garden hose or a low-pressure washer is enough. For heavier soiling, use mild detergents free of abrasives and solvents. Localised damage is easy to touch up.

Rubber paint does not fade abruptly: even after many years in service the colour dulls evenly, without patchiness or streaking.

Advantages over other facade paints

SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT is considerably more elastic than standard acrylic facade paints and bridges hairline cracks in the substrate. That makes it the preferred choice for aerated concrete, plastered facades and older brickwork, where small cracks are simply part of how the wall behaves.

Compared with silicone facade paints, rubber paint is simpler to apply and less expensive, while service life and water repellency are comparable on most substrates.

Common mistakes on facades

• Skipping the primer on porous aerated concrete - increases paint consumption sharply and reduces adhesion.
• Painting onto fresh plaster - leads to peeling within a couple of months. Fresh plaster should cure for at least 28 days.
• Ignoring efflorescence - white deposits will reappear under the paint and spoil the look.
• Painting individual walls on different days with different weather - risks colour banding. Plan the work by elevation, in single sessions per wall.

Frequently asked questions

Can the facade be painted in winter? No - the minimum air and wall temperature is +5 °C. Sub-zero work freezes water in the film and ruins the coating.

Is the paint suitable for wooden facades? Yes, under a dedicated system with antiseptic and a wood primer - see the article on wooden surfaces.

Can it be applied over old alkyd paint? Yes - after degreasing, sanding and an adhesion primer.

Which colours hold up best to sun? Light shades - white, grey, beige, light blue. Darker colours shift slightly faster, but the coating is UV resistant and does not chalk.

Rubber Paint by surface

• Mineral surfaces: concrete, brick, render and stone
• Roofing
• Plinths and foundations
• Wooden surfaces
• Metal surfaces
• Concrete floors

See the full Rubber Paint product page for colours, pack sizes and technical data, or the step-by-step application guide.

Rubber Paint for Roofing

Rubber Paint for Roofing from SILK PLASTER is an elastic, waterproof and vapour-permeable coating that protects metal, slate, felt and flat roofs while staying flexible from -60 °C to +90 °C. Below you will find surface preparation, application technique, coverage and long-term durability of Rubber Paint for Roofing. Explore the full SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT range.

The roof is the first part of any building to take the brunt of the weather - summer heat, heavy rain, hail, snow load, daily temperature swings and ultraviolet radiation. The condition of the roof determines not just how a building looks but how well its insulation, structural elements and interior spaces are protected. SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT forms an elastic, waterproof, vapour-permeable layer on the roof that works as a full protective coating, not just a colour finish.

Why rubber paint suits roofing

The defining feature of SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT is the elasticity of the cured film. After drying it stretches by 70% or more without tearing, accommodating the thermal movement of metal sheets, slate or bituminous substrates. That eliminates the hairline cracks through which water normally finds its way in.

The coating retains its working properties across a temperature range from -60 °C to +90 °C: it does not crack in frost and does not soften under direct sun. Light shades reflect more heat and reduce the temperature of the space beneath the roof - a useful effect for inhabited attic levels.

Suitable roof types

• Metal roofs: galvanised steel, profiled sheeting, standing-seam roofing.
• Slate (asbestos-cement sheets).
• Roofing felt and bitumen-polymer membranes.
• Onduline and bituminous shingles.
• Flat concrete roofs and screeds.
• Previously painted surfaces after appropriate preparation.

Surface preparation

The life of the coating depends directly on how the surface is prepared. The roof is cleaned of dust, debris, leaves, moss and lichen. Loose or flaking old paint is removed mechanically with a scraper or wire brush. Greasy patches are degreased; rust on metal is brushed off and treated with a rust converter.

Cracks, holes and joints are filled with an elastic sealant or an acrylic-based repair compound. Metal surfaces benefit from an anti-corrosion primer; highly absorbent substrates such as slate or concrete should receive a deep-penetrating acrylic primer. The surface must be completely dry before paint is applied.

Application technique

The paint is stirred thoroughly before use. The first coat may be thinned with water by 5-10% to improve penetration into the pores of the substrate. Subsequent coats are applied undiluted.

A velour roller is suitable for most surfaces, a brush for hard-to-reach areas, and an airless sprayer for large roofs. The optimal number of coats is two to three, with each new coat applied perpendicular to the previous one. The drying interval between coats is 1-2 hours at +20 °C and 60% relative humidity.

Working conditions and coverage

Painting is carried out at air and surface temperatures between +5 °C and +30 °C, with relative humidity no higher than 80%. Avoid painting in direct sunlight, in strong wind, or shortly before rain - precipitation within the first 4-6 hours can damage the fresh film.

Consumption is 200-400 g/m² in two coats, depending on porosity and roof profile. A smooth metal roof comes in nearer the lower end; slate and roofing felt absorb more. As a guide, 1 kg of paint covers about 5 m² in two coats.

Durability and maintenance

Properly prepared and applied, the coating keeps its protective and decorative properties season after season. It can be washed with water and mild detergents and does not need annual recoating. Local damage is easy to touch up: fresh paint blends seamlessly with the existing film and leaves no visible boundary.

SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT is a practical choice for owners who want a durable, elastic, watertight roof without resorting to multi-layer waterproofing systems.

Advantages over other roofing materials

Compared with bituminous mastic, rubber paint does not soften in the heat and does not stain the surface - it forms a dry film you can walk on within a day. Compared with alkyd enamel, SILK PLASTER RUBBER PAINT is considerably more elastic and keeps its grip when metal expands and contracts with temperature.

Liquid rubber gives a thicker layer but needs professional equipment and complicated application. Rubber paint works on the same principles but goes on with an ordinary brush or roller - well within the reach of any careful homeowner.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

• Painting onto a damp surface - the leading cause of peeling in the first season. Make sure the roof is dry, especially at seams and overlaps.
• Skipping the anti-corrosion primer on metal - even the most elastic paint will not hold back rust beneath it. Priming is mandatory.
• Laying the first coat too thick. A thin, penetrating coat works better - it builds adhesion, after which heavier finish coats can follow.
• Painting in hot, direct sun. The surface skins over while moisture is trapped inside the film, causing blisters. Work in the morning or in overcast weather.

Frequently asked questions

Can an old slate roof be painted? Yes - after clearing the moss, treating with an antiseptic and priming. The coating bridges micro-cracks and helps protect the sheets underneath.

Is the paint suitable for the roof above a habitable attic? It is. Light shades further reduce heat build-up in the under-roof space and improve the attic’s climate.

Can the paint be applied over existing bituminous coatings? Yes - after cleaning and using a primer compatible with bitumen. The elastic film prevents further cracking of the bitumen layer.

How many coats are required for reliable waterproofing? Three coats give the most secure seal: one thin penetrating coat and two opaque finish coats.

Rubber Paint by surface

• Mineral surfaces: concrete, brick, render and stone
• Facades
• Plinths and foundations
• Wooden surfaces
• Metal surfaces
• Concrete floors

See the full Rubber Paint product page for colours, pack sizes and technical data, or the step-by-step application guide.